A trip to Germany
21 July 1902
A visit from Liverpool, England to Bonn, Germany by Sarah Levin, later Helfet and her friend Rose in July and August 1902. Incomplete. Original in the possession of her grandson Jon Helfet and transcribed by her 2x great nephew Jeremy Hodes PhD in January 2026
Our Bummel (Yiddish, stroll), that is Rosies and mine own,
began when we left Liverpool on Monday, July 21, by the 1.30 p.m. train to
Harwich.
Annie Schnitz, A. Best, Louisa and Jacob [Levin] came to see
us off. The guard was so nice, and promised Jacob to take care of us. He did so
by labelling our carriage "Ladies only”, a proceeding which caused us much
amusement. The journey to Harwich was rather monotonous scenery being flat and
with very little variety.
It lasted nearly 8 hrs, and was dark when we arrived in Harwich.
We wended our way through the dimly-lit quay to ship. There were many passengers
of all nationalities, English, French, Germans, Dutch, and even Greeks and
Italians.
The passage was delightfully smooth. We remained. on deck
for some time, and then were tucked in our berths, and I slept the sleep of the
just until 4 a.m. and then went on deck as a lark, only to find that poor Rose
had been there almost the whole. night suffering from mal-de-mer.
We landed at Hook of Holland at 5 a. m. It was a glorious
morning, and already everything was new and interesting. The language was of
course Dutch, but as station, with train waiting to take us to Germany was just
at the back of landing stage, there was no need for officials. At 5. 30 a.m. we
started on our way.
Oh, how quaint the people looked, and the scenery in Holland
is so very primitive. The land is nearly all laid out for pasture and thousands
of cows nearly all black and white were grazing in the fields, as we flew past.
The trees looked very funny. They are not at all high (at least those we met
with) some, in fact look like bushes stuck on to thin poles. The peculiar part is,
that however thick they are together, they are all of one height, and look as
if somebody had to climb up on a ladder and clip them, so that one was not an
inch higher than another.
Our first stoppage was at Rotterdam, which is very clean a
nice. It looked es funny to see milk-men selling milk whilst in their boats.
Many of the streets had canals where roads us usually are, and most of the
roads are very narrow. The cleanliness everywhere cannot help but strike. one.
The houses are somewhat higher than ours, and the architecture very primitive,
as far as could judge in passing. As we travelled further, scenery became very
monotonous, owing to its sameness.
There were various stoppages, but the next point of interest
was examination of luggage on German frontier at Geldermalsen, I think station
before Goch, where they are sometimes examined.
Here all the passengers were turned out of the train, and were
obliged to remain in the waiting-room until their luggage was brought in, when
it had to be unlocked and opened for the fussy, ingestive officials.
My trunk was corded so well, that it was impossible to undo,
and when I avowed, I had “nichts zu erklären [nothing to declare]”, it was
taken back unexamined. It was most interesting to watch the travellers, their
nationality betraying itself in their gesticulations and department. It was a relief,
as it broke the monotony somewhat.
At last, luggage is safe vans again, passengers re-seated, and
off we go. Officials in light blue uniforms walk backwards and forwards, always
on the watch, eyeing all suspiciously. The "Platz-gelt [literal
translation is place money],” I was totally unprepared for. Each passenger besides
paying for his ticket, had also buy a seat in the carriage, even though
travelling 1st or 2nd class. The advantage is the having the seat reserved, if
there is great demand for seats, but could, I think, be abolished very nicely.
We had a dainty little breakfast of delicious, buttered
rolls and coffee in "Speise-Wagon [dining car]" which refreshed us
considerably. On, still on we go, and now scenery changes. There are more trees
in evidence. They grow higher, nobler, more luxuriantly, and thicker. It is
also more varied, and more interesting. But we were very tired. The train
jogged along, and we were glad when the train arrived in Cologne, for we knew
our journey was almost at an end.
Of course we could not see much of this famous town, but we
saw the spire of the “Dom” not far off. The next station was Bonn, our
destination. We arrived 1.30 p.m. Tuesday and found Mrs Hirsh and her brother
waiting for us.
We were heartily welcomed, and then proceeded “home”, where
we were received effusively by Wwe [probably a German abbreviation for a widow]
Herz, her daughter and all in the house. We at once felt at our case and soon
our fatigue wore off.
In the afternoon, Mrs Hirsh took us for a walk to see
something of the city. It is beautiful here. Noble trees abound on all sides.
In front of our house, there is an open Square called Munster-Platz, which is
bounded by trees hundreds of years old. We walked through several streets,
which are all wondrously clean, and came to Hofsgarten a large greensward,
lined with very old, thick and very high trees. The University forms the background to Hofsgarten.
It is not a by any mean a handsome building without, but is very old. Built of
white stone, as most of the buildings are, is rather low, being in some parts 2
storeys high, in others 3 storeys, in others 3 storeys, it is not exteriorly
ornamented in any way. Nevertheless a noble pile, if only for associations
connected with it. After looking at it with interest, we continued on our until
we arrived in a part of the garden, though almost separated from it, which overlooks
the river, and here we saw our first glimpse of the Rhine—the beautiful,
oft-heard, oft-sung of Rhine. And oh, what a scene! The river is not very wide here,
and a small town, Beuel stands on opposite bank. To the right, at some distance
off, are seen a chain of mountains, here called “Sieben Gebirge”. To the left
of the “Alten Zoll” as this part of the garden is known, there is a wide
handsome bridge across the river connecting Bonn with Beuel. Ships were plying
to and fro, the water was as calm as a sheet of glass, a glorious sky above,
the mountains towering in the distance formed one of the most charming pictures
imaginable.
I drank it in eagerly, realising the beauty of the scene
before me, and longing to have the painter’s gift to transfer it to canvas.
On our return, we
made fresh acquaintances and then did as the Germans do—that is went with our
friends to a beer-garden, or rather the salon, as both are open for wet or fine
weather. Music was heard and people - men and women were sitting round tables,
drinking wine, or beer out of big mugs, all engaged in animated. conversation,
the men smoking away. They all looked so carelessly happy, it struck me the
Germans locked up their cares and worries in their offices, and did not carry
them about with them, as we see Englishmen them do, by their harassed careworn faces.
Of course it was strange to us to see ladies drinking beer out of mugs,
but we grew accustomed to the sight, though neither Rose nor I could ever bring
ourselves to follow their examples.
These Cafés as they are called, all have terraces in front
of Salons, on which people drink, gossip and listen to the music on fine
evenings. Most of them have beautiful gardens attached, which are lit up with
electric-lights, where grand military concerts are held on certain evenings in
favourable weather. These Cafés are a feature of German life. Every body spend
their evenings there, when not at theatres.
We remained at the Hotel-du-Nord until about 11.15 p.m.,
which is considered very early, many being open until 4 or 5 a.m., and some all
night. On returning home, we were introduced to two Jewish students, who
live at the house. There are a number of them staying here. On my mentioning
the absurd custom of duelling still prevailing among German students, on the
slightest provocation, they were good enough to produce swords, and fight a
mock duel for our benefit. The attitudes. necessary for the various strokes are
most graceful, and fencing unaccompanied by cuts, is an art which deserves the
appreciation it gets. Here, it is considered a terrible disgrace for a student
to shirk a duel, even when thrust upon. him, as it is looked upon as a want of
bravery and manliness. It appears to be an honour to have cuts all over the
face, as the result of duelling in student days.
Some of the handsomest faces are marred in this way, but
they are regarded more as beauty masks.
We retired about 12.30 a.m. and thus ended the first day of
what we hope will be one of our most memorable holidays.
Wednesday July 23rd
Unfortunately, it rained at various intervals during the
day, which prevented us from going out in the morning, but we managed to take a
long walk in the afternoon, passed a most beautiful square surrounded by grand
trees, and in the centre of which, a beautiful fountain, plays. It is known as
Kaiser-Platz, and is worthy of its name. The scene is lovely, and not easily forgotten.
Square is bounded on right by a wide avenue of magnificent trees, which stretches
for a couple of miles, known as Popplesdorf Allee. On right of Allee, almost at
beginning, are found most of the grand cafes, which are patronized by the
elite. We walked for a few miles, and on all sides, we found scenery that
called forth our warmest admiration. The houses on both sides of the Allee are
most handsome. Each is built in a style peculiarly its own. No two are alike
but all are artistic. The exteriors are carved most elaborately, and all have
gardens artistically laid out, in which lovely statues abound. Of course these
are the houses of the rich.
After tea, we were introduced to the young ladies, who live
in our pension. They are all pleasant, some exceedingly. pretty, but all looked
older than they really were. People seem to mature so much earlier abroad. They
are very much interested in "die Engläinderinen” and love to hear their
broken German. The girls seem very happy, agreeable, and we soon became
friendly. We feel quite at home. At about 9 p.m., the usual time for such
indulgences, we visited one of the grand cafes - The Hauser Cafe. It is beautiful.
White marble pillars uphold the ceiling, elaborately carved, and lovely
pictures adorn the walls. There is a small white terrace in front of a big
room, in which it is most pleasant to sit on sultry evenings. Some of the
finest German types were to be seen here.
Returned home late, and retired after delightful day.
Thursday July 24th
A glorious, day. In morning Rose and I went for a walk. We
live very near to Rhineenlagen, Hofgarten and University.
The town abounds with students, in fact, they are the
feature of the town. They are always in evidence, and look quite fascinating in
their different coloured caps of various shapes. A great number are frightfully
stout, and look as if they spend their time drinking beer (which is the truth).
The students are divided into corps, and each has its own colours and caps. The
corps is of course the one to which the Crown Prince belongs. Their colour
is white, only "Barosson” or Blue Blood belong to it. When the students
wear their colours, they walk erect and behave most creditably so as not to
disgrace their colours.
The Jewish students here have also formed themselves into a
corp, and I was most pleased to hear that one their duties is to oppose
Anti-Semitism with might and main. Their colours are blue, yellow, and black,
and a peculiar sign—the sign of the Verbindung.
We have he come acquainted. with all who live here. Like all
students, their studies are largely interspersed with Bummellings [taking it
easy] but they receive a grand education which eminently fit them, for the
careers they chose. They all look a credit to their race. Naturally, they are
of a very lively disposition and the house resounds with their fun and
merriment from the moment of their entrance.
In the afternoon, Mrs Hirsch, Rose I travelled to Godesberg,
not far from Bonn. Here, as nearly everywhere along the Rhine, the ruins of a
castle overlooks the village nestling below, from the top of a high mountain.
We climbed to the summit, and the scene that lay below and before us, was very
beautiful. Far back, like a silver streak ran the Rkine. Rising as a
back-ground to it were the Sieben Gebirge. Just below, we saw Godesberg, and
far off—a birdseye view of some other one. A very blue sky above, and the ruins
behind us completed a picture on which I gazed, gazed again and could not gaze
enough. Nature was smiling its sweetest. Everything looked so fresh and green,
as if it were revelling in its own beauty. We could see hundreds of miles, and
yet from such a distance, it formed one view, perfect as Nature only can be. We
could not stay as long as I should have liked, as we were going to a
philharmonic concert in the gardens of Hotel Kley, by the principal orchestra
from Cologne, and consequently not to be missed. We hurried home, driving
through the open country, which was most enjoyable, and arrived just in time to
attend concert. The gardens were crowded with a very smart crowd, among whom.
we recognised Americans and English. We felt such a relief when we occasionally
caught an English sentence. The concert was fine. The gardens were lovely, more
so at dusk, when band-stand was lit up with of fairy-lights and gardens with electricity.
They overlook the Rhine. Immediately below, there is a promenade with trees in
centre, and beds of flowers artistically laid out, at intervals. How poetical and
entrancing the scene was.
Ships of all sizes, passing along, were reflected in the
water, the lights twinkled in it, and then disappeared as they like phantoms
glided away. Mountains loomed in the distance, the waters were black, the Moon,
which was quite full, smiled down with a genial smile upon it all. Oh it was
lovely. I admire the Germans, if only for their gardens in which the love for
the beautiful, and the love for music—the most divine are so exquisitely
blended.
When it was over, Otto, (Mrs Hirsch’s brother) accompanied
us to Hotel du Nord, where we sat on the terrace, drinking lager-beer, at least
he did. I cannot do it, though is quite comme-il-faut, as every
lady has her mug before her as well as gentlemen
Everybody seems to know our nationality. Wherever we go, we
are the cynosure of all eyes, for they can all recognize us
"Auslanderinen” at once. We are getting accustomed to making such a
sensation
Friday July 25th
Glorious Weather. Went for long walk, crossing the bridge,
which on nearer acquaintance is very handsome, to Beuel. This bridge is quite
new, being only a few years in existence. Is most artistic. The railings even
being patterned into bunches of grapes, pears, and other pretty devices. There
are several arches at intervals, and it is very wide across, forming in fact, a
road.
Beuel is not as pretty as Bonn, nor is it as important. In
evening we sailed on Rhine to a little outside Bonn, to the “Stathalle”, where
a grand concert was to be held by Johann Straus and his Orchestra.
The Hall was almost full when we arrived. It us about as
large as our philharmonic. Even here, people sat round tables. I began eating and
drinking before the concert started, but continued during entire performance.
Even this—the clatter of knives and forks, the uncorking of bottles, the
continual hurrying backward and forwards of waiters could not interfere with
the intense enjoyment I derived from the concert.
It was a Straus Evening. The orchestra played mostly
compositions of Straus Jamily, but several items were by other great composers.
The music was almost divine. We were entranced, As Strous conducted his feet
seem to waltz to the music. Nobody could sit still, the very instruments seemed
to sway to the music they produced.
It was a glorious night, the moon was very big and round
still smiled down upon us. In the intervals, we promenaded on the terrace with
the other people, people, who formed quite one of the smartest crowds I have
ever been in. The scene around me was so lovely, so dreamy, so soothing that
words can not adequately describe it, but the picture is stamped indelibly on
my mind, and it is charming and can be conjured up at will. When ended, Shabbos
being of course in, we walked home along promenade by Rhine. It is rather a
long distance, but weather being so perfect and everything so glorious, we
regretted the distance was not greater.
Saturday, July 26th
Another perfect morning. We rose early and attended
Synagogue. The service is Reformed, very short, only lasting 1 hour. The choir
consisted of men and women. There were not many worshippers, majority were
women, which is unusual at home. Synagogue itself not at all pretentious or
pretty, and the apathy of worshippers struck a discord in the service.
Jews here are very ?. Business goes on as usual, Cycling,
Riding, Smoking everything. Nothing is prohibited. Very few of the younger
generation appear to me to conform to any of the precepts of our religion They
make no distinction between Kosher or Trifa, and Judaism altogether seems to be
at a very low ebb, even more than at home, I think.
In afternoon, we walked to a small, but very pretty village
near by—Endenich. We drank coffee in a beautiful garden, and then were obliged
to remain at hotel for several hours, as, quite unexpectedly, it rained for
several hours. We beguiled the time by
dancing in the ball-room, the music being provided by an automatic orchestra,
which played wonderfully.
The evening compensated for afternoon, it was delightfully
fresh and cool, sky so blue ornamented with big white, billowy clouds, making
one imagine he was viewing the snow-capped Alps. We walked home, and after tea,
all went to Popplesdorf Allee
Sunday, July 27th
Rose and I took a long walk in the morning, and then did not
go out until evening, when we went to a Military concert in Hotel Du Nord.
Monday
Went to Hofgarten. Spent quiet morning. In afternoon went to
a Hirmus—a village fair at Endenich. It was just the usual roundabouts, swings,
booths etc, all making a frightful noise, while villagers strolled and indulged
in the fun. In the Hotel, there was dancing. For Each dance, gentlemen had to
pay 20 pfg. It was so amusing. After few bars had been been played, music
suddenly stopped, so that money should be paid, and then dance Continued. The
walk home was delightful.
Tuesday, 29th
Was up 6.30a.m. Caught train 8 a.m. for Düsseldorf to see ausstelleng
[an exhibition]. Journey lasted 1’3 hours. Most interesting exhibition. Grounds
bounded on left by Rhine, buildings on bank most beautiful, all of white stone,
some coloured roofs, most elaborately carved, have been specially built to hold
numerous exhibits. The grounds are most tastefully laid out, and fountains of
all shapes and sizes play constantly. The scene is a lovely one, and teeming
with animated life.
The industrial part of Exhibition we did not have much time
for. The ship-building hall was exceedingly interesting and the models charming
and perfect. We also visited printing Hall, Toffee Making, Clothing, Railway
Lines and many other German industries, which seem to have reached the highest
stage of perfection. We remained most our time at the Kunst [Art] Palace and it
was most lovely. The building itself is wonderfully beautiful, and absolutely
defies description, whilst pictures are worthy of being exhibited in what
promises to be a most successful Ausstelleng. This Art Palace contains a
collection of the finest pictures, sculptures, curios and antiquities, lent by
the principal cities of Germany. There are about 40 large rooms beside
ante-rooms, and gardens which are filled with Sculptor’s finest works. There
are most glorious productions and we could hardly realize that it is in the
power of human minds to conceive and human hands to accomplish such marvellous
beauty.
We also paid a visit to a Cairo city, the noise in which was
simply deafening. The streets are very narrow, shops seem to fall over one
another, and the people do not seem very prepossessing. We visited a native
school, where some 10 poor little children with such tired-looking faces and
dejected mien were repeating some peculiar sounding reading after a worn-out
looking teacher. A native dance was also very interesting, but it consisted of
just whirling round and round for over ½ hour to some monotonous tune played
on a peculiar looking instrument.
The Cafe's were amongst the prettiest buildings, some
standing in their own grounds, surrounded by sweetly scented flowers in pretty
gardens. The scene was most enchanting at night, when the various palaces, the
grounds, fountains + Cafés were illuminated.
Naturally we left the Ausstelleng with a pang of regret, as
the place looked so lovely, and there was so much of interest yet to be seen.
However we were obliged to leave to catch 9.30 train, which arrived in Bonn 11
p.m.
Düsseldorf itself is well worth a visit apart from the
Exhibition. There are some noble buildings. It is famous for its beautiful
beer-gardens, and it appears to be carefully looked after, and we hear is
constantly being improved.
At Bonn Station, we found Otto, Mrs Hirsch's brother waiting
for us, and we at once made for Hotel-du-Nord gardens, where a flower-fête had
been held in the evening, thinking we may be in time to see something of this
pleasing entertainment. Regret we were too late, though their fine Orchestra
were still playing sweet tunes. We saw the Flower-queen, that is, the young
lady who received the most bouquets, and who was consequently crowned Queen of
the flowers. The merriment was not to end yet, for though so late, it was
announced. that dancing would begin in the salon. We accordingly adjourned there,
and were at once besieged by would-be partners, who were so persistent that,
though very tired, we were obliged to dance nearly every dance until 3.a.m,
when Nature—tired disgracefully-treated Nature stepped in and refused to allow
us to remain any longer. It is quite customary for gentlemen to invite ladies
to dance, though previously unacquainted. Here it is such a breach of etiquette
that we were surprised to find it is permissible in staid Germany. The dancers
were the elite of Bonn, and we thoroughly enjoyed being so much in demand and
such a success. This was indeed a happy day.
Wednesday
Frightfully tired. Unable to so any where beyond short
walks. Remained in-doors great part of day talking to our students, who are
most interesting. The boys and girls mature here much quicker than at home, and
all look older than they really are.
Thursday, July 31st
Had delightful stroll in morning. Early in afternoon, we
sailed on Rhine for over an hour until we reached one of the prettiest spots
around known as Rolandseck. Her we along landed, had lovely walk along bank,
then sat on the terrace, of Hotel Grogen—finest hotel drinking coffee and also
the glorious view, which meets the eye from here. Music is always in the air,
usually from the Beer gardens, where the leisured-class seem to spend their
days and evenings drinking wines a chatting to friends and always hearing
music. There is very little home-life here. All go to Beer-gardens to be
amused.
We left shortly and wended our way through vast and thickly
grown forests until we came to the ruins on the peak of Rolandsberg and the
view from such a height was so glorious, it seemed too good to be reality. It
looked like some grand picture conceived in the mind of some great genius, but
it was His creation and it is too marvellous for words. We gazed a gazed.
Immediately opposite, lie the Sieben Gebirge, stretching for some distance
across. The best known of the Gebirge are Drachenfels and Peterburg. These are
on the opposite bank of Rhine the river winding the heights. A charming
uninhabited little Island, very tiny, but luxuriously grown and fertile lies
just in the middle of the river in front of Rolandberg. After we had remained,
as long as we possibly could gazing at nature at her best, we descended by
another path which brought us to a small tower built half-way down the
mountain, from which another charming scene could. be viewed. The sail back was
delightful. Met several Jewish ladies of our acquaintance on board.
Friday Aug 1st
This morning, one of our students presented a most pitiable
sight. He had fought a duel the previous day and his face was bound in 3
places, his head, nose and cheek. Poor fellow looked as if in pain, yet proud and
happy nevertheless and quite revelling in the knowledge that his opponent—Student
from a rival corps—had been worsted. I spent morning quietly in "Alten
Zoll” which overlooks Rhine.
In afternoon a jolly little party was formed and we again
took steamer, but only to Godesburg, the first stoppage from Bonn, walked to
pretty little village called Rhunsdorf, where we had coffee on a terrace, then
sailed across in a tiny steam-yacht to Köningswinter, opposite Rolandseck, from
where rises the famous Drachenfels. It was delightful. The water was so smooth and
weather glorious. On arriving at Köningswinter, we began of course at once to
climb Drachenfels. The climbing is not unpleasant, as tall trees shade the path
most of the way. Beautiful and gentle reindeer came to peep at us with startled
looks in the big brown eyes. On reaching top, we found ruins which look so
small from a distance be big and thick.
The view from top is lovely. Miles and miles of country lay
stretched before us, whilst the river, which looked a narrow streak, winded in and
out most gracefully. We saw a lovely sunset, the first here. Yesterday and
today were two of our happiest days. The scenery we saw was most exquisite, can
hardly imagine anything more beautiful. We were told that these two points of
view were of the finest along Rhine. Our party was very merry, the boys singing
and helping us to do the climbing and Cracking jokes all the day.
Saturday.
This morning, two of the students were kind enough to escort
Rose and self to university to hear lecture by Prof. Clemens one of the most
noted and popular lecturers and at one time tutor to Crown Prince. Lecture-hall
was crowded with ladies and students, the Crown Prince also attended. He was
dressed ordinarily, wearing his white student-cap and was accompanied by his
attendant. He is very young—19 years old and looks unassuming and not at all
striking. The lecture was on The Renaissance of Art on the Rhineland. I did not
understand much, but there were exceptionally good line-light illustrations,
taken by lecturer when travelling with Crown Prince as his tutor. These I
enjoyed very much.
My German is progressing very well. Am becoming quite a
fluent speaker.
In afternoon, we went with an exceedingly clever law-student
to Castleruke, a hill outside Bonn, on top of which Military Concert was held.
The view from here not pretty, as it overlooks the manufacturing district, and
tall chimneys obstruct anything there may be
Sunday Aug 2nd
Church parade in Popplesdorf Allee. Music in Du Nord
Gardens. Town beginning to look empty, as University closing and Students
vacation starting. Bonn nothing without its students. Already losing its charm.
Went to concert in Grons afternoon.
Monday
Rained whole day. Spent most interesting day. Had ices in
pretty cafe, then coffee Hotel Kley with Otto Hirsch, then across bridge to small
village called Schwarzheifleyndorf to see very ancient church built 1100-1126
known as the "Dopplekirche”. It is built in 2 storeys. Lower about 100
years before upper, and far more primitive. Two services held at same time
(Dopple).
The paintings of Christ, Mary and Saints very gaily coloured
and limbs quite out of proportion as painting of olden times are. Were informed
Napolean and his army did considerable damage on passing to and fro.
We spent some time here. it was well worth it, and then
through village to quaint old inn, where we partook of coffee, schwarz brod
[black bread] and butter, and macaroons- a speciality. Rose played several
waltzes on an old piano, while Otto and I danced. We stayed till quite late,
then returned home perfectly happy.
Tuesday
Decided to spend day in Cologne. Left Bonn at 1 p.m. arrived
Cologne at 1.45 p.m. Programme had been drawn up Monday. We therefore knew how
to proceed. On leaving Station, which is most bewildering, owing to size and
vast amount of traffic, we saw the famous “Dom” or Cathedral standing directly
opposite, and a marvellous old structure it is. Each side of the outside is
wonderful work of art. It is colossal in size, and spires very high, built of
stone turned grey with age.
On entering, a beautiful scene met our gaze. At short
intervals, in every wall and nook, are placed wonderful stained glass windows,
depicting scenes from Bible, mostly New Testament, in exquisite colouring.
There are some beautiful carvings and parts of the stone floor are in-laid with
coloured stones to form holy pictures and proverbs. A part chained off where
holy sacraments and relics are kept is grand.
There were a large number of visitors, mostly American and
English. It was hard to realize that we were not at home, as Germans and other
Continental races were in the minority here. Stayed here marvelling and
admiring for long time, then had drive right round and through Köln. Streets
not wide. Buildings high but in short space of time could not judge much,
though did not see many mansions as beautiful and artistic as those of Bonn.
Drive was very enjoyable. Then on to Hotel Monopole, one of the finest—for
lunch. Rested and refreshed, and rode in Car to Zoological Gardens, and as drive
is along side of Rhine was delightful. Gardens beautifully laid out, birds and animals
only varied. We were fortunate enough to hear grand Philharmonic Concert here,
which was thoroughly enjoyable. Then made another tour through again,
lovely-coloured birds attracting and fascinating me. Left gardens to return to
town. Surprised to meet a Bonn acquaintance, who immediately appointed himself
our guide, which we truly appreciated, as he took us to part worth visiting. We
went to busy part
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