Diary of Sarah Levin on the occasion of her first visit to London May 17 1900[1]
May 17th
I left Liverpool very much excited at 12:30 PM. Nell
had called for me, and was kind enough to take me to the station. At first, I
was eager to see all the scenery, but little by little, I got tired of it, and
was longing to be at the end of my journey.
Till Derby I had a very pleasant lady travelling with
me, a nurse with whom I had a very interesting conversation. Then an elderly
lady who was much engrossed with the war-news till Leicesters, and a haughty,
touch-me-not, speak-to-me-you dare society lady till we arrived at St Pancreas
Station at 6:00 o’clock.
Here Bert was waiting for me. We took the tram to the
Levin’s house and on arriving there received a very hearty welcome from Jenny,
Essie and Min. They live in a lovely house, very tastefully furnished and Jenny
conducts it admirably. She is a splendid girl.
After tea and a little rest, I went out with Bert. We
took the bus, and rode through Hampstead Road, Tottenham Court Road, and from thence
to Charing Cross. From here we walked past Trafalgar Square, through the Haymarket
and returned by way of Regent St, Oxford St, and Tottenham Court Road. It was a
delightful walk. We passed the Frascati (the famous café and winter gardens)
and saw Oxford Street by night. The next (Friday morning) was the time
appointed for my meeting with Mrs D’avigdor and the other committee ladies of
the Anglo-Jewish-Association. I therefore got ready by 10:00 a.m. Jenny took me
to a bus which drove to Tottenham Court Road. Here I changed for Piccadilly and
I had a lovely ride through the principal West-end streets. Past the Marble Arch
and arrived at Hyde Park corner too early for my appointment. I therefore went
in to Hyde Park and I was struck with astonishment at the size and beauty of
it. The ladies and gentlemen were all riding on horseback in their splendid
fitting habits up and down the Row and I saw some very good exhibitions of both
graceful and daring riding. Ladies were all sorts of conditions, old, pretty,
ugly, stout, thin, graceful and ungraceful, but all Aristocratic. Cyclists were
also plentiful but not as many as equestrians.
Punctually at 11:30 I went to the Leopold de
Rothschild’s Mansion, 5 Hamilton Terrace, Piccadilly W (where the meeting was
held) and was shown by a footman in livery into the presence of the committee
ladies, among whom, were Mrs Adler; Mrs Leopold; Miss D’Avigdor and others of
note. Miss D’Avigdor received me very kindly and put me at my ease at once.
Another applicant for the Jerusalem post was also there. We were shown into
another room probably the drawing room while the ladies read our testimonials
no doubt. The room baffles my powers of description entirely. It is the most
beautiful wonderful room I have ever had the good fortune to be in.
The ceiling and walls were entirely of carved oak,
each panel representing a certain science. The ceiling formed a circle, the
panels gradually increasing in size from the centre to the outer walls. The
floor was covered with carpet several inches high. There were two suites each
upholstered with brocaded velvet stamped on a gold ground. On every table,
medallions and photos in silver frames were strewn about. Around the walls were
cabinets in which one could see the most exquisite China and wonderfully carved
bronze plate.
In a corner a bookcase of beautifully bound books was
standing. Lovely little rifles were everywhere, and on the whole, it is a room
one can only see once in a life-time. At last, I was called into the presence
of these August ladies. I was not at all nervous, as they all smiled so nicely
at me. My testimonials and appearance seem to please them very much, my answers
still more as they all laughed several times.
After a short cross examination Miss D’ Avigdor told
me that I should come to see her Monday next and she would tell me their
decision. This room was very much larger than the other. A reception room, I
presume. It was richly but plainly furnished. Outside underneath the balcony I
could see marble statues in every alcove.
Hothouse plants and flowers were in abundance
everywhere. When the door was shut upon all this grandeur I took the bus to
Bert’s school. It took me to Harrow Road, and after walking a little way I
found it quite easily. It is a very tiny school. Bert only has about 83
children. They sang and recited very prettily for me. All love Bert very much.
I waited till school was over and then we walked to the West again. The shops
are a treat of course. In Westbourne Grove a shop of all things (Whiteleys’)
extends for almost half the street. We had tea at one of the Lyon’s Cafes here
and then resumed our tour through the principal streets. The costumes are of
course dreams, and entirely beyond the reach of an ordinary and perhaps some
extraordinary pockets. We caught a bus at Piccadilly which drives almost home
and reached there late in the afternoon after spending a most pleasant day.
About seven o’clock a visitor arrived for me in the person of Mr Scott Fenn who
had come to show me around London.
Mr W Levin was kind enough to invite him to supper. He
looked rather curiously at the Kaddish and Grace Part, but of course made no
remark. Bert and I went for a little walk with him after supper. It was a
glorious evening, though it rained a little in the afternoon. He seemed very
pleased to see me, and has arranged to take us to Earl’s Court Exhibition
Tuesday evening. I noticed on the newspaper placard General Botha had been
captured.
May 19th Saturday
This morning we awoke to hear loud noises and cheering
in the streets, the cause of which we soon learnt was the news that Mafeking
had at last been relieved. This was indeed news to rejoice over. Essie, Minnie
and I walked as far as Oxford Street, Regent Street, and I have never seen such
enthusiasm and rejoicing in my life. One had to fight one’s way through the
crowd. There were rejoicings all day and all night. The principal shops showed
their loyalty by illuminating their fronts. The sheets displayed a very
animated and lively appearance in consequence. I was introduced to a young
gentleman, Mr Phil Abrahams on my return home, a gentleman, who proved to be
very witty and accomplished. We went out for a walk with Jenny and myself after
tea. We went to Regents Park where we listened to the band for a short time
then watched the rowing in the lake. On leaving at the opposite side of the
park, we were confronted with a very imposing block of beautiful buildings, two
of which the park-keeper was kind enough to point out to us as being the
residences of Mr George R Simms [journalist and poet] and Madame Nordica [Lilian
Nordica, an American opera singer] respectively. I gazed with awe at the walls
which sheltered such genius. As we went near Madame Tussaud Wax works Mr Abrams
was kind enough to take us.
I enjoyed it all immensely. The presentation to the Queen
in her Drawing Room was just as I expected. Some new tableaux there interested
me very much – Cronje’s surrender to Lord Roberts, how our soldiers live in
South Africa, and a fight with the Indians. Nelson’s death touched me very
much. Tennyson was represented sitting in his study smiling surrounded by his
beloved books. It was very nice but I did not recognise any of the celebrities.
They were not at all lifelike. Dreyfus did not resemble the original at all.
I cannot write of all I saw, as my whole diary would
be too small. I was rather disappointed at the size. I imagined it to be much
larger and also expected finer music. We were fortunate enough to catch a bus,
but had to go inside and so missed seeing the life and gaiety of a Saturday
night in London, made even more lively by the great news. The noise was
deafening, and they seemed to have come out in their tens of thousands to
celebrate the relief.
May 20th Sunday
Fortunately, Bert had holiday in the morning otherwise
she usually has to teach Hebrew for two hours. It was a glorious morning, and we
drove to Hyde Park for church parade the ladies’ dresses were elegant. All
worth productions. We walked up and down the fashionable part several times. I
drinking in the beauty of the scene. Near the Row there is a large lake on
which many were already rowing!
I forgot to mention that we only rode in Trafalgar
Square, which is a vast square, in the centre of which, towers a huge column,
with the figure of Nelson on top. Around him are many of our greatest
celebrities. From here we walked through famous Paul Mall, where all the
fashionable clubs are situated, all grand buildings, also the War Offices, from
which sometimes such sad, otherwise such joyous news is issued. For many even
the joyous is sad, as they see the names of their dear ones among the slain.
The authorities have been considerate enough to make a special room for ladies,
so that no inquisitive gaze can behold their sacred grief. Ah me, how terrible
a thing is war. May it soon be over.
The hotels we passed all looked like mansions,
beautiful buildings. We passed at the bottom of Paul Mall, St James Palace (one
of the Queen’s town residences) and Buckingham Palace (Prince of Wales’s do).
Before the courtyards of both were seen sentinels, standing so stiffed and
erect, Bert felt inclined to tickle them. I was there to restrain her impulse
otherwise … well I will not even think
of what might have been. Walking through Piccadilly, I beheld the homes of the
rich and they were worth living in. My only consolation was that I in my humble
home was no doubt, thousand times happier than thousands of those who live in
such luxury.
We remained in Hyde Park rather longer than we
intended, so quietly stopped a passing bus and rode home in time for dinner.
The dear girls had invited some friends to meet me in the evening, so going out
again after dinner was not to be thought of. I therefore have time to make this
entry in my diary. Bert had invited Miss Annie Piser and in a P.S. had told her
to bring her brother and Mr Tobias. We did not expect them. Judge our surprise
therefore when Annie and her brother arrived for tea. The Latter said he had
come to see me and that Mr Tobias was coming later, which also came true. I was
introduced to all who came but remained with little Annie, as I have learned to
love her, she is such a dear little girl. Piser I could see, worships her and I
liked him all the better for it. Both her and Alf were extremely nice the whole
evening and it passed very pleasantly. They all wrote their names in my B book.
Piser and I had a rather serious conversation for a light evening, the subject
being religion, but he has promised to give me his views another time. We took
them to the station, and I think they were not sorry they came though they had
to travel so many miles to do so. I have never seen either of the ? look so
nice either. It was rather late when we returned so retired for the night.
May 21st Monday
This morning I was obliged to awake from my slumbers
very early for I was to go to the Free school with Minnie, who is a teacher
there. Miss Abady, the head-mistress had kindly given her permission
previously. We had to travel by the underground Railway to the east. Oh what a
contrast was presented to the West I had spent the previous morning in.
The Lane that I had been longing to see, filled me with disgust. Dirt and
squalor prevalent everywhere in this part of the East, and I felt quite
relieved when we arrived at the schools. The children were just assembling in [front]
of teachers, some smart, some handsome, others pretty, many plain, and dowdy,
and nearly all pleasant and bright looking. At 9:15 Minnie and I began
our tour through the different classes. I was struck at once at the happy and
contented expression on the children’s faces, some of whom had perhaps not had
even a crust of bread to eat. The most poorly dressed were clean and tidy, and
every class of girls presented a neat and tidy appearance. I was rather
surprised at this, as I had just passed some of their homes, which looked more
like dirty hovels than dwelling-houses. I never will see another school like
this one, I am sure. Every convenience one can think of in connexion with a
school is there. Each teacher has a separate room, and no class interferes with
another. Pupil teachers have no classes of their own, not even scholarship
girls, but assist certified teachers’ part of the day, and devote the rest to
their own studies, thus having considerable advantage over our girls. I had an
opportunity for learning to know the girls I was mostly impressed with at
recess. C Levy brought me a roll and glass of hot milk, which every teacher can
have for the magnificent sum of 1d.
The number I was introduced to bewildered me. After
recess, I continued my inspection. I had a very nice chat about Annie with Miss
Alperwich the 7th St teacher. She has retained a very high opinion
of my dear girl, and even now has a lingering fondness for her. The girls who
had known her, at all, remembered her, and spoke lovingly of her. I felt quite
proud for her sake. They were one and all delighted to hear that she was
progressing so very favourably, and were quite prepared to love me already on
hearing I was Ann’s pitch particularly friend.
I thanked Miss Abad and let this left the schools at
about 11:30, though I had not seen half of even the girl’s school, it is such
an immense building. I was very much interested in standard 0. Only about 28
children, and yet they actually had a certified teacher to teach them. She was
kind enough to let them sing and recite for me, and give them a lesson on
arithmetic. Her method pleased me immensely. Children looked upon her as an
elder sister, and I could see love for her written on their faces, yet the discipline
was perfect. I felt as if I would like to be in standard 0 again to have this
charming teacher to give me lessons in such a happy way. I was very pleased
that I went to see these schools for a visit to them is not easily forgotten.
Now that I was in East I determined to look up the
Rosenblooms, for I knew I would never be forgiven, when they would hear that I
had been in London since Thursday, and had not yet visited them. On enquiring I
found I was very near to where they live, and just as I turned to go into the
street they live in, I met Mrs Rosenblum coming towards me, evidently to do
some shopping. To say she was thunderstruck on seeing me would not describe the
expression on her face. She just folded me in her arms, imposing a long kiss on
my face, and wended her way homewards with me. Bertha happened to be looking
through the window as we passed. There was a look of surprise on her face, but
I did not think she quite realised that it could be I. She quickly ran to open
the door, and there was a very touchy touching re-union. We were all
half-laughing half-crying. Lazarus has grown into a fine handsome young man
almost as tall as his brother was, but much better looking. Rosie was at
school, and I jumped when she returned. She has become such a fine tall girl.
Refinement is written on every feature, and I think she promises to be a grand
woman some-day. We sat and chatted about the olden days for a short time. Then
Bert took me to see Annie’s auntie, whom I had promised them I would go to
visit. She was very pleased to see me, and after a short stay, I went to see
Miss D’Avigdor to hear the all-important decision. She said that she knew
nothing definite yet, but would let me know by letter. We then returned to the
Rosenbloom’s where I had dinner. They did not want to let me go back at all,
only that I told them, I wished to go to the theatre that evening. I promised
to return the next day. Bert and Lazarus saw me to the station. I was sorry I
had remained so long for on my return home, I found the girls all in a state of
anxiety, wondering what had become of me thinking, all sorts of terrible
things, and also found it too late to go to the theatre. I did not mind not
going as I felt so very tired after this most eventful day. I do not like some
part of the East at all though most of the business portion is very nice, quite
as nice as “town” in Liverpool, but the slums are in a shocking condition. It
made me feel very sad to think that my brethren lived in such dirt and poverty,
and breathed such poison all their lives. I felt quite happy to regain the
restfulness, happiness and ? which pervades the atmosphere of the charming
house in which I at present find myself. I shall be very very sorry to leave
it, as it suits me so well and makes me feel so happy.
May 22nd Tuesday
I suppose it suddenly struck the weather clerk why he had
been so kind to me and given me such glorious weather, from looking through the
window this morning, found a frown spoiling the sweet smiling blue skies and
something must have vexed it for it was shedding copious tears much to my
chagrin. Nevertheless Jenny and I were determined that the weather would not
deter us from fulfilling our programme for this morning. After a ride through
town in the rain we arrived in the East. It was a very sorry spectacle for the
streets were so fearfully dirty. We met Lizzie Levy in Houndsditch and she ? to
come with us to see St Paul’s Cathedral. We also met Marks Cohen, son of
Reverend Sussman Cohen, to whose house, we were then wending our way. Jenny introduced
us and after a short conversation he left us to keep an appointment. All this
time the rain was coming down in torrents, and I did not enjoy walking in the
mud at all. I was very glad when we arrived at Cohens. We did not find Ada [Ada
Goldstone, later to be Mark’s wife] in but Mrs [Bertha] Cohen was very nice and
asked very kindly after Hannah [probably Hannah Levin (Nee Baum), Sarah’s
sister-in-law]. Ada came in shortly after, and seemed delighted to renew her
acquaintance with me. It was raining so heavily that we were obliged to abandon
our trip to St Paul’s and Ada and I wended our way to the lane, where we parted,
she to her friend, I to the Rosenblooms, as promised. They again made me very
welcome, and were quite lavish in their refreshments. I wonder do they love me
as much as they seem to do, I am afraid I have become rather cynical, and like
to probe into human nature, deeper than the surface. Until I broached the
subject, they did not mention the elder son. They told me he was getting on
nicely and I questioned them no further about him. I again spent the afternoon
with them but returned early as Bert and I were to go to Earl’s Court
Exhibition. Fortunately, it stopped raining about 5 o’clock so we looked forward
to going, though all day I was despondent, thinking that that too would have to
be abandoned. However it was a glorious evening, so I was happy after all. We
arrived at Charing Cross Station at 7 PM and we found Scott already waiting for
us. We had to go by the underground railway, a mode of travelling to which I am
not very partial. However what cannot be cured must be endured, and we arrive
safely at Earl’s Court, where we met a friend of Scott’s and they were both
exceedingly kind to us. It is really a woman’s exhibition. Women’s work
displayed, (wonder) women posters, women selling programmes, three orchestras
in the ground conducted by women, everything there they’re all done by women. The
work displayed was wonderfully executed. The grounds are beautiful, and looked
like fairy land when lit up with all coloured fairy lamps. Gaily coloured
gondolas glided up and down the lakes, which were found in each of the three
grounds. The famous wheel is enormous and a sight in itself. To walk through
the beautiful, enchanting grounds, while sweet music filled the air discoursed
by beautiful girls in pretty costumes was sufficient to make the evening one of
the most enjoyable I have ever spent. Nevertheless the boys took us to hear the
Electrophrone, through which we heard a part of Faust, the opera being played
at Covent Gardens at the time a little of Sanjoy from the Daly’s, one song by
Haydn (Coffin) and a little of the dialogue, a song sung beautifully at the
Palace. It is a wonderful invention, even the clapping of the audience is
distinctly heard and one can almost picture the acting that accompanies the music
and singing. We had supper in the grounds, while listening to one of the
orchestras. We left the exhibition at about 10:30, the time having slipped all
too quickly for my tastes, for I should have loved to linger longer amid such
beautiful surroundings. There is even a picture gallery, though not all the
pictures were any good. Some were beautiful though. Came home pleasantly tired,
delighted with all we had seen and enjoyed. This evening will be a memorable
one, for the enjoyment was so perfect.
May 24th Wednesday
Rain again. I am so sorry but feel grateful that the
weather-clerk at least obliged us by making the previous evening so delightful.
Halloa, the rain stops at 10 a.m. the sun comes and how jolly. Jenny and I both
get ready, and catch a bus going to the West. We again went our way towards the
world of fashion, and it presents a very pretty picture. I suggested that we
should visit the National Gallery, and there I revelled among the works of the
great, past and present. Men who were mere names to me before now showed all
their genius to me. Landseer, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Turner, Rosa Bonheur, all
the great painter’s work. Impossible to see every room in this vast beautiful
building, so we only saw a few of the most important of the English and some of
the foreign works. I could have remained here all day, but Jenny called and I
had to obey and with a sigh of regret, I left this work of wonders. After a
delightful ride home, I rested a short time. Bert came home from school, Jenny,
she and I went to the theatre to see “Two Ladies”. It was very good and I
enjoyed it immensely.
May 25th Thursday
Hurrah! Queen’s birthday holiday for Bert. Get ready
early and go to the West to see decorations. Streets look beautiful. Walk side
by side with earls, dukes, counts and their ladies and all the great. While in
the West, Bert and I had our photos taken, and then it suddenly began to pour.
We looked at each other in dismay, for we had to walk some distance before we
could catch the bus. However we must, and so we did. I do not like London when
raining at all, as the mud is ankle deep. We got home rather wet but soon got
dry, and when the sun began to shine brightly again at about 3:00 p.m. we were
quite ready to go out to meet Scott, and spend a pleasant afternoon and evening
out during the celebrations. When we met him at the station, he took us
straight to Lyons Café to have tea and then we had a delightful walk through
the principal West-end streets to Hyde Park, where we sat some time, watching
the ladies ride past in their carriages, enjoying a nice conversation and
breathing the sweet park air. I did not feel inclined to leave it, as the
afternoon was so glorious, but I had seen Dan Leno and Vesta Tilley’s name on
some placard, and suggested spending the evening at the Pavilion where they
were to appear. Accordingly we set out, and arrived in very good time to get a
splendid view of the stage. What artists! what genius! Each one actor or
actress was great, and each in A totally different line. It was the most
enjoyable evening. When in Liverpool can we get two good stars in the one
evening? Seldom, and here I heard Dan Leno, Chingwin, George Robey, George
Lashwood, Henry Tate (mimic) Pat Rafferty, Vesta Tilley, Bessie Wentworth,
Vesta Victoria, 3 sisters Chester, Gotham Trio, etc and a number of acrobats,
jugglers and comedians and dancers of lesser fame, yet all clever and amusing.
They cater well for the amusements of a London audience, and I am pleased that
I thought of going there.
We left the theatre at 11 o’clock though the
performances were not were not yet finished and as the streets were yet
thronged with people to see the illuminations we too felt disinclined to go
home, so went for a walk through A few of the West-end streets again. I must
confess I did not like them at all at this hour so we turned our faces homeward
and Bert and I were just in time to catch a bus after having taken leave of
Scott, who had been so very kind to both of us.
The next morning, as Bert had to go to school and
Jenny was busy, I made my way alone towards Westminster, in order to see the
Abbey. Of course it is impossible to walk, and I had a most enjoyable ride
there. This old, historical beautiful building baffles my powers of description
altogether. I shall never forget it. I longed to be a painter, so that I could
transform to paper the interior of this noble building. I spent the whole
morning in it, and then rode to the Marble Arch, where I was to meet Bert. I had
not long to wait for her, and we proceeded towards the streets of fashion again
for the last time. I left her about 6 p.m., when I went by train to the east to
spend the Sabbath with the Rosenblooms. They made me very welcome. I spent a
quiet Friday evening, as I felt rather tired but directly after an early dinner
on Saturday, Bertha, Lazarus and I went out to see what we could see in the
East-end. I had never seen so many Jewish people together before. Wherever I
turned I saw my brethren. Being Saturday, they were all dressed in their best,
particularly the ladies. Occasionally I could see some dressed quietly and
prettily, but the majority were decked in rather gaudy colours, and not quite
in harmony, which made them very conspicuous. They did not seem to mind
attracting notice. I suppose they are used to it and perhaps enjoy the
sensation of feeling that all turn around to look at them. The girls (not all
of course) did not look at all bright, their faces had a very jaded look and
nearly all were sallow. Poor girls, working all day in close, hot rooms
certainly does not give very fresh complexions. Compared with Christian working-girls
of the same class they deserve great praise. On the whole they are superior in
every way. Their faces much more refined, and their manners and dress much
nicer and better. I felt quite proud of them, when I thought that they never
had opportunities of educating themselves in any way, and still that they were
not rough or common. We soon left the Jewish quarter, and proceeded through the
“City”, through Lombard St, passed Threadneedle St where I saw the Bank of
England, then the Mansion House at the end of Lombard St, and through very, very
busy streets till we came to St Paul’s Cathedral. The Cathedral looks, as it
is, much newer than the Abbey. We stayed for the afternoon service, and I was
surprised to find that it did not impress me in the least. Oh, before the
Cathedral we went to London Tower. The jewels were very tempting, but they were
too strongly guarded, so I was unable to commit any crimes. The Queen’s crown
is the largest and looks the most costly of all former sovereigns. The room
where the great had been confined struck a chill through me. It is very small
and dark with narrow slits in the walls to allow air and light to pass through.
Every wall has many inscriptions by the illustrious
prisoners. I did not like this room, it made me too sad. We went through the
bloody tower where the two little princes had been murdered, and then visited
the armoury where arms and armour of ancient, mediaeval and modern periods are
to be found. The soldiers are not protected now as they were in former times.
The suits of mail look very heavy and cumbersome, but one must feel safe
inside. In the? there is a sport marked where poor lady Jane Grey was beheaded.
After leaving St Paul’s we went towards the Thames Embankment,
just got as far as Blackfriars Bridge, rested a little, and then returned
feeling very very tired.
After a rest and tea Bertha took me to where Nancy
Cohen, Annie’s friend lives. She recognised me by my photos, was delighted to
see me, introduced me to the rest of the family. They did not know I was
leaving London the next-day and both Nancy and her brother were already making
a pleasant programme for the ensuing week. I was very very sorry to tell them
that it could not be carried out, and they looked even more disappointed than
I. I felt extremely grateful to them for such kindness to one who had been a
comparative stranger a few minutes before. I left their home rather late and so
was unable to see Annie’s aunt again, as I had hoped to do.
Early the next morning I parted from the Rosenblooms.
There was a mutual feeling of sadness at the thought of leaving each other, but
it was inevitable. Bertha and Lazarus came with me as far as Moorgate St, where
I took the tram going to Camden Town.
All the way, I felt very sad and lonely. I feel drawn
to Bertha and love her. I cannot help sympathising most sincerely with her. Her
lot in life is cast among such uncongenial and unpromising surroundings, that
all hopes of a happier future seem to be extinguished in her. Poor Bertha, she
deserves such a fate least of all.
I received a hearty return welcome from Levin’s and of
course I had to tell them all that had occurred since I last saw them. At about
three o’clock I said good bye to all but Jenny and Bertha who kindly
accompanied me to the station to see me off. They stayed with me until the train
steamed out of the station and the last I saw of them was as I looked out of
the window, and found them blowing kisses to me, as I glided further and
further from them. I at last sank onto the seat, and after about six hours slow
travelling, I had last arrived in Liverpool once more, after spending 10 whole
days in our wonderful metropolis, quite unexpectedly, and altogether most
pleasantly.
Finis
[1]
Manuscript in the possession of her grandson Jonnie Helfet and transcribed by
her 2x great-nephew, Jeremy Hodes in September 2024
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