Saturday, 19 October 2024

Diary of Sarah Levin on the occasion of her first visit to London in May 1900

 

Diary of Sarah Levin on the occasion of her first visit to London May 17 1900[1]

May 17th

I left Liverpool very much excited at 12:30 PM. Nell had called for me, and was kind enough to take me to the station. At first, I was eager to see all the scenery, but little by little, I got tired of it, and was longing to be at the end of my journey.

Till Derby I had a very pleasant lady travelling with me, a nurse with whom I had a very interesting conversation. Then an elderly lady who was much engrossed with the war-news till Leicesters, and a haughty, touch-me-not, speak-to-me-you dare society lady till we arrived at St Pancreas Station at 6:00 o’clock.

Here Bert was waiting for me. We took the tram to the Levin’s house and on arriving there received a very hearty welcome from Jenny, Essie and Min. They live in a lovely house, very tastefully furnished and Jenny conducts it admirably. She is a splendid girl.

After tea and a little rest, I went out with Bert. We took the bus, and rode through Hampstead Road, Tottenham Court Road, and from thence to Charing Cross. From here we walked past Trafalgar Square, through the Haymarket and returned by way of Regent St, Oxford St, and Tottenham Court Road. It was a delightful walk. We passed the Frascati (the famous café and winter gardens) and saw Oxford Street by night. The next (Friday morning) was the time appointed for my meeting with Mrs D’avigdor and the other committee ladies of the Anglo-Jewish-Association. I therefore got ready by 10:00 a.m. Jenny took me to a bus which drove to Tottenham Court Road. Here I changed for Piccadilly and I had a lovely ride through the principal West-end streets. Past the Marble Arch and arrived at Hyde Park corner too early for my appointment. I therefore went in to Hyde Park and I was struck with astonishment at the size and beauty of it. The ladies and gentlemen were all riding on horseback in their splendid fitting habits up and down the Row and I saw some very good exhibitions of both graceful and daring riding. Ladies were all sorts of conditions, old, pretty, ugly, stout, thin, graceful and ungraceful, but all Aristocratic. Cyclists were also plentiful but not as many as equestrians.

Punctually at 11:30 I went to the Leopold de Rothschild’s Mansion, 5 Hamilton Terrace, Piccadilly W (where the meeting was held) and was shown by a footman in livery into the presence of the committee ladies, among whom, were Mrs Adler; Mrs Leopold; Miss D’Avigdor and others of note. Miss D’Avigdor received me very kindly and put me at my ease at once. Another applicant for the Jerusalem post was also there. We were shown into another room probably the drawing room while the ladies read our testimonials no doubt. The room baffles my powers of description entirely. It is the most beautiful wonderful room I have ever had the good fortune to be in.

The ceiling and walls were entirely of carved oak, each panel representing a certain science. The ceiling formed a circle, the panels gradually increasing in size from the centre to the outer walls. The floor was covered with carpet several inches high. There were two suites each upholstered with brocaded velvet stamped on a gold ground. On every table, medallions and photos in silver frames were strewn about. Around the walls were cabinets in which one could see the most exquisite China and wonderfully carved bronze plate.

In a corner a bookcase of beautifully bound books was standing. Lovely little rifles were everywhere, and on the whole, it is a room one can only see once in a life-time. At last, I was called into the presence of these August ladies. I was not at all nervous, as they all smiled so nicely at me. My testimonials and appearance seem to please them very much, my answers still more as they all laughed several times.

After a short cross examination Miss D’ Avigdor told me that I should come to see her Monday next and she would tell me their decision. This room was very much larger than the other. A reception room, I presume. It was richly but plainly furnished. Outside underneath the balcony I could see marble statues in every alcove.

Hothouse plants and flowers were in abundance everywhere. When the door was shut upon all this grandeur I took the bus to Bert’s school. It took me to Harrow Road, and after walking a little way I found it quite easily. It is a very tiny school. Bert only has about 83 children. They sang and recited very prettily for me. All love Bert very much. I waited till school was over and then we walked to the West again. The shops are a treat of course. In Westbourne Grove a shop of all things (Whiteleys’) extends for almost half the street. We had tea at one of the Lyon’s Cafes here and then resumed our tour through the principal streets. The costumes are of course dreams, and entirely beyond the reach of an ordinary and perhaps some extraordinary pockets. We caught a bus at Piccadilly which drives almost home and reached there late in the afternoon after spending a most pleasant day. About seven o’clock a visitor arrived for me in the person of Mr Scott Fenn who had come to show me around London.

Mr W Levin was kind enough to invite him to supper. He looked rather curiously at the Kaddish and Grace Part, but of course made no remark. Bert and I went for a little walk with him after supper. It was a glorious evening, though it rained a little in the afternoon. He seemed very pleased to see me, and has arranged to take us to Earl’s Court Exhibition Tuesday evening. I noticed on the newspaper placard General Botha had been captured.

May 19th Saturday

This morning we awoke to hear loud noises and cheering in the streets, the cause of which we soon learnt was the news that Mafeking had at last been relieved. This was indeed news to rejoice over. Essie, Minnie and I walked as far as Oxford Street, Regent Street, and I have never seen such enthusiasm and rejoicing in my life. One had to fight one’s way through the crowd. There were rejoicings all day and all night. The principal shops showed their loyalty by illuminating their fronts. The sheets displayed a very animated and lively appearance in consequence. I was introduced to a young gentleman, Mr Phil Abrahams on my return home, a gentleman, who proved to be very witty and accomplished. We went out for a walk with Jenny and myself after tea. We went to Regents Park where we listened to the band for a short time then watched the rowing in the lake. On leaving at the opposite side of the park, we were confronted with a very imposing block of beautiful buildings, two of which the park-keeper was kind enough to point out to us as being the residences of Mr George R Simms [journalist and poet] and Madame Nordica [Lilian Nordica, an American opera singer] respectively. I gazed with awe at the walls which sheltered such genius. As we went near Madame Tussaud Wax works Mr Abrams was kind enough to take us.

I enjoyed it all immensely. The presentation to the Queen in her Drawing Room was just as I expected. Some new tableaux there interested me very much – Cronje’s surrender to Lord Roberts, how our soldiers live in South Africa, and a fight with the Indians. Nelson’s death touched me very much. Tennyson was represented sitting in his study smiling surrounded by his beloved books. It was very nice but I did not recognise any of the celebrities. They were not at all lifelike. Dreyfus did not resemble the original at all.

I cannot write of all I saw, as my whole diary would be too small. I was rather disappointed at the size. I imagined it to be much larger and also expected finer music. We were fortunate enough to catch a bus, but had to go inside and so missed seeing the life and gaiety of a Saturday night in London, made even more lively by the great news. The noise was deafening, and they seemed to have come out in their tens of thousands to celebrate the relief.

May 20th Sunday

Fortunately, Bert had holiday in the morning otherwise she usually has to teach Hebrew for two hours. It was a glorious morning, and we drove to Hyde Park for church parade the ladies’ dresses were elegant. All worth productions. We walked up and down the fashionable part several times. I drinking in the beauty of the scene. Near the Row there is a large lake on which many were already rowing!

I forgot to mention that we only rode in Trafalgar Square, which is a vast square, in the centre of which, towers a huge column, with the figure of Nelson on top. Around him are many of our greatest celebrities. From here we walked through famous Paul Mall, where all the fashionable clubs are situated, all grand buildings, also the War Offices, from which sometimes such sad, otherwise such joyous news is issued. For many even the joyous is sad, as they see the names of their dear ones among the slain. The authorities have been considerate enough to make a special room for ladies, so that no inquisitive gaze can behold their sacred grief. Ah me, how terrible a thing is war. May it soon be over.

The hotels we passed all looked like mansions, beautiful buildings. We passed at the bottom of Paul Mall, St James Palace (one of the Queen’s town residences) and Buckingham Palace (Prince of Wales’s do). Before the courtyards of both were seen sentinels, standing so stiffed and erect, Bert felt inclined to tickle them. I was there to restrain her impulse otherwise …  well I will not even think of what might have been. Walking through Piccadilly, I beheld the homes of the rich and they were worth living in. My only consolation was that I in my humble home was no doubt, thousand times happier than thousands of those who live in such luxury.

We remained in Hyde Park rather longer than we intended, so quietly stopped a passing bus and rode home in time for dinner. The dear girls had invited some friends to meet me in the evening, so going out again after dinner was not to be thought of. I therefore have time to make this entry in my diary. Bert had invited Miss Annie Piser and in a P.S. had told her to bring her brother and Mr Tobias. We did not expect them. Judge our surprise therefore when Annie and her brother arrived for tea. The Latter said he had come to see me and that Mr Tobias was coming later, which also came true. I was introduced to all who came but remained with little Annie, as I have learned to love her, she is such a dear little girl. Piser I could see, worships her and I liked him all the better for it. Both her and Alf were extremely nice the whole evening and it passed very pleasantly. They all wrote their names in my B book. Piser and I had a rather serious conversation for a light evening, the subject being religion, but he has promised to give me his views another time. We took them to the station, and I think they were not sorry they came though they had to travel so many miles to do so. I have never seen either of the ? look so nice either. It was rather late when we returned so retired for the night.

May 21st Monday

This morning I was obliged to awake from my slumbers very early for I was to go to the Free school with Minnie, who is a teacher there. Miss Abady, the head-mistress had kindly given her permission previously. We had to travel by the underground Railway to the east. Oh what a contrast was presented to the West I had spent the previous morning in. The Lane that I had been longing to see, filled me with disgust. Dirt and squalor prevalent everywhere in this part of the East, and I felt quite relieved when we arrived at the schools. The children were just assembling in [front] of teachers, some smart, some handsome, others pretty, many plain, and dowdy, and nearly all pleasant and bright looking. At 9:15 Minnie and I began our tour through the different classes. I was struck at once at the happy and contented expression on the children’s faces, some of whom had perhaps not had even a crust of bread to eat. The most poorly dressed were clean and tidy, and every class of girls presented a neat and tidy appearance. I was rather surprised at this, as I had just passed some of their homes, which looked more like dirty hovels than dwelling-houses. I never will see another school like this one, I am sure. Every convenience one can think of in connexion with a school is there. Each teacher has a separate room, and no class interferes with another. Pupil teachers have no classes of their own, not even scholarship girls, but assist certified teachers’ part of the day, and devote the rest to their own studies, thus having considerable advantage over our girls. I had an opportunity for learning to know the girls I was mostly impressed with at recess. C Levy brought me a roll and glass of hot milk, which every teacher can have for the magnificent sum of 1d.

The number I was introduced to bewildered me. After recess, I continued my inspection. I had a very nice chat about Annie with Miss Alperwich the 7th St teacher. She has retained a very high opinion of my dear girl, and even now has a lingering fondness for her. The girls who had known her, at all, remembered her, and spoke lovingly of her. I felt quite proud for her sake. They were one and all delighted to hear that she was progressing so very favourably, and were quite prepared to love me already on hearing I was Ann’s pitch particularly friend.

I thanked Miss Abad and let this left the schools at about 11:30, though I had not seen half of even the girl’s school, it is such an immense building. I was very much interested in standard 0. Only about 28 children, and yet they actually had a certified teacher to teach them. She was kind enough to let them sing and recite for me, and give them a lesson on arithmetic. Her method pleased me immensely. Children looked upon her as an elder sister, and I could see love for her written on their faces, yet the discipline was perfect. I felt as if I would like to be in standard 0 again to have this charming teacher to give me lessons in such a happy way. I was very pleased that I went to see these schools for a visit to them is not easily forgotten.

Now that I was in East I determined to look up the Rosenblooms, for I knew I would never be forgiven, when they would hear that I had been in London since Thursday, and had not yet visited them. On enquiring I found I was very near to where they live, and just as I turned to go into the street they live in, I met Mrs Rosenblum coming towards me, evidently to do some shopping. To say she was thunderstruck on seeing me would not describe the expression on her face. She just folded me in her arms, imposing a long kiss on my face, and wended her way homewards with me. Bertha happened to be looking through the window as we passed. There was a look of surprise on her face, but I did not think she quite realised that it could be I. She quickly ran to open the door, and there was a very touchy touching re-union. We were all half-laughing half-crying. Lazarus has grown into a fine handsome young man almost as tall as his brother was, but much better looking. Rosie was at school, and I jumped when she returned. She has become such a fine tall girl. Refinement is written on every feature, and I think she promises to be a grand woman some-day. We sat and chatted about the olden days for a short time. Then Bert took me to see Annie’s auntie, whom I had promised them I would go to visit. She was very pleased to see me, and after a short stay, I went to see Miss D’Avigdor to hear the all-important decision. She said that she knew nothing definite yet, but would let me know by letter. We then returned to the Rosenbloom’s where I had dinner. They did not want to let me go back at all, only that I told them, I wished to go to the theatre that evening. I promised to return the next day. Bert and Lazarus saw me to the station. I was sorry I had remained so long for on my return home, I found the girls all in a state of anxiety, wondering what had become of me thinking, all sorts of terrible things, and also found it too late to go to the theatre. I did not mind not going as I felt so very tired after this most eventful day. I do not like some part of the East at all though most of the business portion is very nice, quite as nice as “town” in Liverpool, but the slums are in a shocking condition. It made me feel very sad to think that my brethren lived in such dirt and poverty, and breathed such poison all their lives. I felt quite happy to regain the restfulness, happiness and ? which pervades the atmosphere of the charming house in which I at present find myself. I shall be very very sorry to leave it, as it suits me so well and makes me feel so happy.

May 22nd Tuesday

I suppose it suddenly struck the weather clerk why he had been so kind to me and given me such glorious weather, from looking through the window this morning, found a frown spoiling the sweet smiling blue skies and something must have vexed it for it was shedding copious tears much to my chagrin. Nevertheless Jenny and I were determined that the weather would not deter us from fulfilling our programme for this morning. After a ride through town in the rain we arrived in the East. It was a very sorry spectacle for the streets were so fearfully dirty. We met Lizzie Levy in Houndsditch and she ? to come with us to see St Paul’s Cathedral. We also met Marks Cohen, son of Reverend Sussman Cohen, to whose house, we were then wending our way. Jenny introduced us and after a short conversation he left us to keep an appointment. All this time the rain was coming down in torrents, and I did not enjoy walking in the mud at all. I was very glad when we arrived at Cohens. We did not find Ada [Ada Goldstone, later to be Mark’s wife] in but Mrs [Bertha] Cohen was very nice and asked very kindly after Hannah [probably Hannah Levin (Nee Baum), Sarah’s sister-in-law]. Ada came in shortly after, and seemed delighted to renew her acquaintance with me. It was raining so heavily that we were obliged to abandon our trip to St Paul’s and Ada and I wended our way to the lane, where we parted, she to her friend, I to the Rosenblooms, as promised. They again made me very welcome, and were quite lavish in their refreshments. I wonder do they love me as much as they seem to do, I am afraid I have become rather cynical, and like to probe into human nature, deeper than the surface. Until I broached the subject, they did not mention the elder son. They told me he was getting on nicely and I questioned them no further about him. I again spent the afternoon with them but returned early as Bert and I were to go to Earl’s Court Exhibition. Fortunately, it stopped raining about 5 o’clock so we looked forward to going, though all day I was despondent, thinking that that too would have to be abandoned. However it was a glorious evening, so I was happy after all. We arrived at Charing Cross Station at 7 PM and we found Scott already waiting for us. We had to go by the underground railway, a mode of travelling to which I am not very partial. However what cannot be cured must be endured, and we arrive safely at Earl’s Court, where we met a friend of Scott’s and they were both exceedingly kind to us. It is really a woman’s exhibition. Women’s work displayed, (wonder) women posters, women selling programmes, three orchestras in the ground conducted by women, everything there they’re all done by women. The work displayed was wonderfully executed. The grounds are beautiful, and looked like fairy land when lit up with all coloured fairy lamps. Gaily coloured gondolas glided up and down the lakes, which were found in each of the three grounds. The famous wheel is enormous and a sight in itself. To walk through the beautiful, enchanting grounds, while sweet music filled the air discoursed by beautiful girls in pretty costumes was sufficient to make the evening one of the most enjoyable I have ever spent. Nevertheless the boys took us to hear the Electrophrone, through which we heard a part of Faust, the opera being played at Covent Gardens at the time a little of Sanjoy from the Daly’s, one song by Haydn (Coffin) and a little of the dialogue, a song sung beautifully at the Palace. It is a wonderful invention, even the clapping of the audience is distinctly heard and one can almost picture the acting that accompanies the music and singing. We had supper in the grounds, while listening to one of the orchestras. We left the exhibition at about 10:30, the time having slipped all too quickly for my tastes, for I should have loved to linger longer amid such beautiful surroundings. There is even a picture gallery, though not all the pictures were any good. Some were beautiful though. Came home pleasantly tired, delighted with all we had seen and enjoyed. This evening will be a memorable one, for the enjoyment was so perfect.

May 24th Wednesday

Rain again. I am so sorry but feel grateful that the weather-clerk at least obliged us by making the previous evening so delightful. Halloa, the rain stops at 10 a.m. the sun comes and how jolly. Jenny and I both get ready, and catch a bus going to the West. We again went our way towards the world of fashion, and it presents a very pretty picture. I suggested that we should visit the National Gallery, and there I revelled among the works of the great, past and present. Men who were mere names to me before now showed all their genius to me. Landseer, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Turner, Rosa Bonheur, all the great painter’s work. Impossible to see every room in this vast beautiful building, so we only saw a few of the most important of the English and some of the foreign works. I could have remained here all day, but Jenny called and I had to obey and with a sigh of regret, I left this work of wonders. After a delightful ride home, I rested a short time. Bert came home from school, Jenny, she and I went to the theatre to see “Two Ladies”. It was very good and I enjoyed it immensely.

May 25th Thursday

Hurrah! Queen’s birthday holiday for Bert. Get ready early and go to the West to see decorations. Streets look beautiful. Walk side by side with earls, dukes, counts and their ladies and all the great. While in the West, Bert and I had our photos taken, and then it suddenly began to pour. We looked at each other in dismay, for we had to walk some distance before we could catch the bus. However we must, and so we did. I do not like London when raining at all, as the mud is ankle deep. We got home rather wet but soon got dry, and when the sun began to shine brightly again at about 3:00 p.m. we were quite ready to go out to meet Scott, and spend a pleasant afternoon and evening out during the celebrations. When we met him at the station, he took us straight to Lyons Café to have tea and then we had a delightful walk through the principal West-end streets to Hyde Park, where we sat some time, watching the ladies ride past in their carriages, enjoying a nice conversation and breathing the sweet park air. I did not feel inclined to leave it, as the afternoon was so glorious, but I had seen Dan Leno and Vesta Tilley’s name on some placard, and suggested spending the evening at the Pavilion where they were to appear. Accordingly we set out, and arrived in very good time to get a splendid view of the stage. What artists! what genius! Each one actor or actress was great, and each in A totally different line. It was the most enjoyable evening. When in Liverpool can we get two good stars in the one evening? Seldom, and here I heard Dan Leno, Chingwin, George Robey, George Lashwood, Henry Tate (mimic) Pat Rafferty, Vesta Tilley, Bessie Wentworth, Vesta Victoria, 3 sisters Chester, Gotham Trio, etc and a number of acrobats, jugglers and comedians and dancers of lesser fame, yet all clever and amusing. They cater well for the amusements of a London audience, and I am pleased that I thought of going there.

We left the theatre at 11 o’clock though the performances were not were not yet finished and as the streets were yet thronged with people to see the illuminations we too felt disinclined to go home, so went for a walk through A few of the West-end streets again. I must confess I did not like them at all at this hour so we turned our faces homeward and Bert and I were just in time to catch a bus after having taken leave of Scott, who had been so very kind to both of us.

The next morning, as Bert had to go to school and Jenny was busy, I made my way alone towards Westminster, in order to see the Abbey. Of course it is impossible to walk, and I had a most enjoyable ride there. This old, historical beautiful building baffles my powers of description altogether. I shall never forget it. I longed to be a painter, so that I could transform to paper the interior of this noble building. I spent the whole morning in it, and then rode to the Marble Arch, where I was to meet Bert. I had not long to wait for her, and we proceeded towards the streets of fashion again for the last time. I left her about 6 p.m., when I went by train to the east to spend the Sabbath with the Rosenblooms. They made me very welcome. I spent a quiet Friday evening, as I felt rather tired but directly after an early dinner on Saturday, Bertha, Lazarus and I went out to see what we could see in the East-end. I had never seen so many Jewish people together before. Wherever I turned I saw my brethren. Being Saturday, they were all dressed in their best, particularly the ladies. Occasionally I could see some dressed quietly and prettily, but the majority were decked in rather gaudy colours, and not quite in harmony, which made them very conspicuous. They did not seem to mind attracting notice. I suppose they are used to it and perhaps enjoy the sensation of feeling that all turn around to look at them. The girls (not all of course) did not look at all bright, their faces had a very jaded look and nearly all were sallow. Poor girls, working all day in close, hot rooms certainly does not give very fresh complexions. Compared with Christian working-girls of the same class they deserve great praise. On the whole they are superior in every way. Their faces much more refined, and their manners and dress much nicer and better. I felt quite proud of them, when I thought that they never had opportunities of educating themselves in any way, and still that they were not rough or common. We soon left the Jewish quarter, and proceeded through the “City”, through Lombard St, passed Threadneedle St where I saw the Bank of England, then the Mansion House at the end of Lombard St, and through very, very busy streets till we came to St Paul’s Cathedral. The Cathedral looks, as it is, much newer than the Abbey. We stayed for the afternoon service, and I was surprised to find that it did not impress me in the least. Oh, before the Cathedral we went to London Tower. The jewels were very tempting, but they were too strongly guarded, so I was unable to commit any crimes. The Queen’s crown is the largest and looks the most costly of all former sovereigns. The room where the great had been confined struck a chill through me. It is very small and dark with narrow slits in the walls to allow air and light to pass through.

Every wall has many inscriptions by the illustrious prisoners. I did not like this room, it made me too sad. We went through the bloody tower where the two little princes had been murdered, and then visited the armoury where arms and armour of ancient, mediaeval and modern periods are to be found. The soldiers are not protected now as they were in former times. The suits of mail look very heavy and cumbersome, but one must feel safe inside. In the? there is a sport marked where poor lady Jane Grey was beheaded.

After leaving St Paul’s we went towards the Thames Embankment, just got as far as Blackfriars Bridge, rested a little, and then returned feeling very very tired.

After a rest and tea Bertha took me to where Nancy Cohen, Annie’s friend lives. She recognised me by my photos, was delighted to see me, introduced me to the rest of the family. They did not know I was leaving London the next-day and both Nancy and her brother were already making a pleasant programme for the ensuing week. I was very very sorry to tell them that it could not be carried out, and they looked even more disappointed than I. I felt extremely grateful to them for such kindness to one who had been a comparative stranger a few minutes before. I left their home rather late and so was unable to see Annie’s aunt again, as I had hoped to do.

Early the next morning I parted from the Rosenblooms. There was a mutual feeling of sadness at the thought of leaving each other, but it was inevitable. Bertha and Lazarus came with me as far as Moorgate St, where I took the tram going to Camden Town.

All the way, I felt very sad and lonely. I feel drawn to Bertha and love her. I cannot help sympathising most sincerely with her. Her lot in life is cast among such uncongenial and unpromising surroundings, that all hopes of a happier future seem to be extinguished in her. Poor Bertha, she deserves such a fate least of all.

I received a hearty return welcome from Levin’s and of course I had to tell them all that had occurred since I last saw them. At about three o’clock I said good bye to all but Jenny and Bertha who kindly accompanied me to the station to see me off. They stayed with me until the train steamed out of the station and the last I saw of them was as I looked out of the window, and found them blowing kisses to me, as I glided further and further from them. I at last sank onto the seat, and after about six hours slow travelling, I had last arrived in Liverpool once more, after spending 10 whole days in our wonderful metropolis, quite unexpectedly, and altogether most pleasantly.

Finis


 



[1] Manuscript in the possession of her grandson Jonnie Helfet and transcribed by her 2x great-nephew, Jeremy Hodes in September 2024

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